عطر با رایحه‌ی طبیعی و مصنوعی، محبوب و عجیب

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عطر با رایحه طبیعی و مصنوعی محبوب و عجیب NATURAL AND SYNTHETIC POPULAR AND WEIRD 7 محصول وجود دارد

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  • عطر با رایحه چوب کشمیری Cashmeran

    چوب کشمیری (Cashmeran)

    چوب کشمیری Cashmeranچوب کشمیری Cashmeranچوب کشمیری Cashmeran

    Cashmeran
    Group: Chemical Components
    Cashmeran
    Cashmeran
    Cashmeran
    Odor profile: Synthetic note with musky, woody, wet concrete facets, very popular with modern fragrance releases


    Among the many popular synthetic ingredients in the perfumer's palette today some are used more frequently than others. Be it thanks to their pliability, which fits like a glove many diverse compositions of different fragrance families, or thanks to their diffusiveness and tenacity, they form the core of many a modern perfume formula. Cashmeran is definitely among them; a synthetic not found in nature but copiously used in products we use every day.
     

    NAME, IMPRESSIONS & REALITY

    The proper name of Cashmeran is 1,2,3,5,6,7-hexahydro-1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4h-inden-4-one. Though commonly refered to as "blond woods" in perfume speak, the reality is that the ingredient Cashmeran (an International Flavors and Fragrances appelation) is actually a musk component with a yellow, trickly texture. Its scent profile takes over a vast sea between woods and ambers, abstract and indefinable.

    The name Cashmeran derives from its tactile feel which recalls the smoothness and softness of cashmere wool. Among the first perfumes to use it in a considerable degree is Loulou by Cacharel. It was also used prominently in Sexy Grafitti by Escada (2002). Tempting though it may be to imagine that modern best-seller Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan (1994) is full of it, in reality the powdery soft perfume doesn't use it.

    CASHMERAN IN PERFUME COMPOSITION


    Insoluble in water and hydrophobic, it's therefore a prime target for use in functional perfumery too, since it won't rinse out: detergents, fabric softener, alcoholic lotions, deodorants, shampoos, you name it... But fine perfumery has profited of its advantages as well.
     

    The diffusive, musky-woody scent is reminiscent of concrete (especially the abstract woody scent that concrete gives when hit upon by rain, a cityscape in the rain), also lightly spicy, lightly powdery. Though perfumers sometimes describe it to also have apple and pine facets I admit I haven't detected these myself. It is however used as a powerful floralizer as it aids the expansion and diffusion of floral notes, especially accords of jasmine, as in Thierry Mugler's Alien or the lighter Flora Nerolia by Guerlain (where it's married to neroli and frankincense as well). In Histoires de Parfums' Tuberose Trilogy, Gislain chose to include the note in the Tubereuse Virginal offering, where blond woods coexist with naturally cohabitating, heady white flowers on a base of patchouli and vanilla.



    Blending well with other modern ingredients (ambroxan, allyl amyl glycolate, damascones, ethyl maltol...) as well as natural ingredients (frankincense, clary sage, citrus, geraniol, linalool, patchouli, tonka bean, vetiver, etc.), Cashmeran presents a vista of options for the creative perfumer. It can serve woody or warm musk compositions (see Miami Glow by JLo), formulae resting on rose and saffron, tobacco or oud masculine blends (see Nomaoud by Comptoir Sud Pacifique or Byredo's Accord Oud), even perfumes with jonquil or cassie. It can even aid aqueous olfactory scapes, such as in Armani's Acqua di Gioia Essenza.



    Another one of the advantages of this fairly inexpensive musky component is that it has a medium potency in volume projection, but a long trail that surpasses a full day's length. Being a mild sensitiser, its ratio is currently restricted to no more than 2% of the compound. It's clear we will be seeing it more and more admitted as such in official perfume press releases in the years to come.

    Author: Elena Vosnaki is a historian & perfume writer from Greece and a Writer to Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she has been contributing to publications around the world.

  • عطر با رایحه نت های دریایی Sea Notes

    نت های دریایی (Sea Notes)

    نت های دریایی Sea Notesنت های دریایی Sea Notesنت های دریایی Sea Notes
    Sea Water
    Other names: ocean, surf
    Group: Non-organic raw materials
    Sea Water
    Sea Water
    Sea Water
    Odor profile: The scent of the sea, as captured via highly sophisticated synthetic components of organic chemistry. A "marine" note.


    Marine fragrances, graced with sensual and salty note of sea water, are most appropriate for hot summer days. Sea note is used in various perfumes to create a fresh composition and lend a distinctive sea water aroma that refreshes our mind and our senses. It is not unusual to find new versions of some old fragrances offered in a special edition that delivers a refreshing sea water twist. This is something that many famous perfumers often do each summer, when they introduce new watery compositions to cool down and invigorate our spirits.
     


    Water is the source of life, surrounding us from all different corners of the world and it many different forms. Depending on its cycles, it can be liquid, solid and glassy, or even almost invisible in the form of a mist. The largest surfaces of our plant are covered in water – as many as 71%! The world’s sea is composed of oceans and seas linked together in a mysterious blue watery carpet that covers a large part of our world. World Sea is full of salty water and its salinity can reach up to 1.025 g/ml on oceans' surfaces.
     

    Sea water note is usually found in the top notes of a fragrance with a purpose to introduce fresh and clean composition right from the opening. Sea water note is often combined with other fresh and clean notes, while fragrances for men often include fruity notes, herbs or flowery bouquet.


    Cool and fresh interpretation of sea water is found in men’s editions such as Davidoff Cool Water and Acqua di Gio . Other interesting and fresh marine fragrances for men include Antonio Banderas Blue Seduction for men and Jil Sander Sun Men Fresh. This note is also used in niche perfumery. For example, the house of Montale offers two interpretations of sea water note in Embruns d'Essaouira and Sandflowers .
     


    This note is usually used for men fragrances, and it is rarely found in the composition of perfumes for women. However, there are a couple of exceptions such as M by Mariah Carey , Rochas Aquawoman , summer fragrancy romance which refreshes aura, romantic Ella Mikao:Yujin Amour , and Reminiscence Etoile de Rem .
     

    Fragrances graced with sea water note often have characteristic bottle designs which are supposed to follow the symbolism of the fragrance. These editions are usually delivered in blue bottles, shaped like water bottles ( Puma Aqua Man ) or like frozen ice cubes (212 Men Summer on Ice 2003). Bottle design is often transparent, simple and clean.

     


    Author: Sandra Raicevic Petrovic
    (sandrina_bambina)

    Fragrantica Executive Editor, Writer and Designer

  • عطر با رایحه نمک Salt

    نمک (Salt)

    نمک Saltنمک Saltنمک Salt
    Salt
    lat. Sodium chloride (NaCl)
    Group: Non-organic raw materials
    Salt Sodium chloride (NaCl)
    Salt Sodium chloride (NaCl)
    Salt Sodium chloride (NaCl)
    Odor profile: A savory note that can render interesting a marine, woody or -more intriguingly- a gourmand composition. Pairs great with vetiver and some fruits or sweet notes (chocolate, cream, biscuit) to provide an unusual and arresting effect in modern compositions. Can also be due to a high ambergris (natural or synthetic) content.

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